**Lost and Found in Paris** Paris welcomed me differently this time. From the moment I arrived, the city felt as though it had set aside its usual performance and invited me to experience something quieter, more honest. I had been here before. I knew the Paris that makes you lift your chin: the Eiffel Tower stretching impossibly into the sky, the Arc de Triomphe standing magnificent over the rush of traffic, the Louvre holding centuries behind stone and glass. I knew the Pari