**The Tram I Finally Stepped Off** The train ran south out of Porto, and for the last stretch, the river came out to meet us. It widened beside the tracks until it seemed to forget it was a river at all. It was broad and silver, wrinkled by the wind, holding the whole afternoon sky. Terracotta roofs crowded the far bank. A gull hung over the water without moving its wings. I leaned my forehead against the glass, cool against the carriage's warmth. Lisbon. I had seen the photo